Soul Food - Schnittke Concerto for Piano and Strings

Le Bistrot Paul Bert, Paris

Tucked away in a small street east of the Bastille, between Rue du Charonne and Boulevard Voltaire is my favourite place to eat in Paris, and in my top 5, all time favourite places to eat, Le Bistrot Paul Bert. This is a quintessential Parisian Bistrot, serving exemplary traditional French cuisine. The first time I came here was in 2007 after a coaching session at the Bastille - one of those rare times you're exhausted and just hoping to quickly find a decent menu du jour and then literally stumble across somewhere that is not only exactly what you're in the mood for, but a place where those dishes are truly exceptional.

Since that day I've returned many times - I've even been to Paris on a few day trips just to eat there with Parisian friends, a few of whom were introduced to the place by me and are now regulars themselves - and my choice rarely devaites far from my choice that first time - Noix de St Jaques to start, Steak Frites or Cotes de Boeuf - the impeccably sourced beef perfectly saignant and beautifully flavoursome with rich, golden brown frites - finishing with the best Tarte Tatin you will ever find - perfect combination of fruit, melt in the mouth pastry and burnt caramel with a hint of saltiness. Bliss. When I don't have to sing in the days following and can relax about having all things dairy, I have been known to go for the killer classic dessert, Paris-Brest - choux pastry filled with nut flavoured cream... sounds a bit much right? Wrong - put eating Paris-Brest at Paul Bert on your bucket list, stat. The wine list is pefect, always with about a dozen vins du mois.... predictably I go for a cotes du Rhone or chilled gamay on a warm day with the beef.

côte de boeuf 

This is heaven for carnivores like myself, however both the menus prix fixe and a la carte have a wide variety of fish also. I'm sorry to say I can't comment on the vegetarian options/variety.... it's a world unfamiliar to me and so I don't always remember in my meat-haze.... will report on that next time.

The atmosphere makes this place a cut above the rest too - laid back, sophisticated bo-bo chic - effortless and unpretentious, low-key authentic Parisien Bistrot style with tiled floors, zinc bar, years' old mirrors, art and chandeliers - the only place to rival it for authentic Parisien atmosphere is that great Rue du Faubourg institution, Chartier, the latter also being a must see/eat place and one of my favourite in Paris, but rather more 'old-school, formal'. Most patrons are regulars but I find it a very welcoming place and the wait staff are extremely attentive and helpful (with just a teensy hint of that superiority that I personally actually find so reassuring when ordering food)..... even when the place is packed, as it frequently is. The prix fixe menus offer extraordinary value for money and change daily, offering a wide variety of choice, according to the season and market. If you want to eat great French food you won't find better than Paul Bert. I'm already salivating at the thought of my next visit..... 

http://www.lefigaro.fr/sortir-paris/2011/11/22/03013-20111122ARTFIG00790-les-15-meilleurs-bistrots-de-paris-bistrot-paul-bert.php

http://www.timeout.fr/paris/en/le-bistrot-paul-bert-restaurants-cafes

http://www.restaurant-chartier.com/www/visit/filsdesans.php

Soul Food - Heifetz, Piatigorsky and Rubinstein play Ravel Trio, First Movement

Rožmarin, Maribor

I'm still in Ireland but I thought I should drag myself away from watching catch-up House and The Good Wife back to back in my downtime to talk about some great restaurants I've experienced earlier this year. In Slovenia. Yes, Slovenia - in my opinion the most underrated country in Europe as a food and culture destination. The country's landscapes are also breathtaking, from the mountains, lakes and Soča River in the north to the rolling hills and vines of the Vipava Valley and the tiny coast line in the south. Anyway I first discovered this amazing middle European country back in 2007 when the director-choreographer Valentina Turcu cast me in one of her pieces at the the Slovenian National Opera in Maribor. It was then I discovered how amazingly well the Slovenians produced food, using local, seasonal ingredients as a matter of course with the 'slow food' network influencing a great deal of restaurant food preparation. My first discovery way back then in Maribor that I continue to return to again and again for consistently exciting, delicious food is Rožmarin. They also have an incredible wine list, Slovenian wine being some of the best being produced in Europe right now. The chefs at Rožmarin take the best seasonal ingredients available and with influences from traditional French and Italian cuisine with more specific Istrian, Styrian and Balkan flavours, combine creativity and experimentation to produce a sensational menu.

 Rožmarin, Maribor

So I was delighted to be able to return in January while working on a future project with Valentina (watch this space - all I'm saying for now is.... Schoenberg). We opted for the 4 course menu for €29 -  let me tell you that food this good at this unbelievable price is worth flying to Maribor for a long weekend. I started with Lavender Fois Gras on Polenta followed by Gnocchi with Goat's Cheese with Fennel and Prawns in a Light Saffron Sauce. Then came Venison with a Chocolate (not what you may first think) sauce - a smoky, rich jus with just a hint of chocolate - with Roast Vegetables and Mushroom. For dessert - Hot Chocolate Soufflé with Raspberry Icecream and Rosemary. Now in this blog I'm not going to go on and on describing the different, subtle layers of taste sensations, painting the food with words, tripping superlative over superlative.... First of all I'm intrinsically pretty lazy so if I write about a place, the food will be exceptional, end of story, otherwise I wouldn't bother. Just assume all the clichés and insert your own favourites. And.... just go.

 I have to also mention that the décor is modern, cool and elegant and the wait staff really know their stuff - trust their recommendations and although the wine list is extensive and international, drink the Slovenian wine and go with the menu or sommelier's recommendations. their lunch menu is also extensive and even better value for money. There's also a cafe that serves breakfast and drinks as well as a downstairs bar and wine shop/tasting room.

I started with an aromatic Klarnica from Makovec in Vipava - one of my favourite grapes unique to Slovenia - dry but highly aromatic white. We then opted for a Simčič Cabernet Sauvignon. Check out the wine list on their website - if you know your wine I guarantee you'll be impressed.

This restaurant should be a serious foodie's travel destination - with Slovenia nestled in between Austria, Italy, Hungary and Croatia it surely can't be too far from where some of you live, or many of you on your next European holiday?

I have another great Maribor dining experience to talk about too - homemade, traditional Serbian food, opposite to Rožmarin in every aesthetic, bar the delicious factor. But more of that later....

http://www.rozmarin.si/sl
http://www.mansus.si/
http://www.sng-mb.si/

Vladimir Jurowski introduces the LPO's 2012-13 season

I have to say I'm really excited about the LPOs 2012-13 season -  imaginative and intelligent programming as we've come to expect from Vladimir, including great works by Nono, B A Zimmerman, Berg, Weill.....
Here he gives a broad overview of the first part of the season, including a mention of Grisey's Quatre chants pour franchir le seuil, which I'll be performing with them on December 12 this year.
I'll join them again in March 2013 for Weill's masterpiece Die Dreigroschenoper...... Can't wait!

Fishy Fishy Restaurant, Kinsale, Ireland

So on a day off between shows in County Cork this week I took the opportunity to drive down to the gorgeous fishing village of Kinsale, which had been highly recommended by my Irish colleagues in the cast and orchestra.

Kinsale

My Papagena had also recommended the restaurant Fishy Fishy so it was there I found myself enjoying a fabulous lunch with great quality fresh seafood, from a menu which reminded me of one of my favourite restaurants - period - Mures Upper Deck in my old home city, Hobart. Ah, nostalgia!!

Mures Upper Deck, Hobart, Tasmania

I was seated by noted chef and proprietor Martin Shanahan who left me with an impressive international wine list - even more impressive given most wines on offer were available by the glass. So with an aperitif of Hugel Riesling I decided on the seafood chowder followed by mixed fish with chilli on a bed of salad leaves. The chowder.... wow, I've eaten alot of good and some great chowder since I've been in Ireland over the last few months - most notably at Vaughans Anchor Inn in Liscannor on the County Clare Coast.

Vaughans, Liscannor

But the tomato and strong tarragon base of my Kinsale chowder was absolutely my thing - never too much tarragon! - and so my new crown for best chowder goes to Fishy Fishy. It was served with freshly baked brown soda bread that I simply couldn't ignore, despite my efforts to stay wheat free at the moment (so I can still fit into my costume corset....). I'm weak. They were only itsy bitsy pieces..... But so worth the fall from grace. My main was made up of 3 different types of fish (I know - should have asked what they were but I didn't know then that I would be writing a blog... What, should have recognised them? Look, in Australia we have different kinds of fish, all of which I know of course....) Anyway, tender squid was also in the mix, all lightly fried with sweet chilli - just the right amount of kick without overpowering the fish - on a bed of  salad leaves. There were also potato wedges involved.... I know, I'm not a fan of the potato wedge either as a rule, but these were no-nonsense crisp on the outside fluffy on the inside and perfect to temper the sweetness of the chilli. Yum. All washed down with another glass of Hugel. Skipped desert and coffee..... difficult as that was, dairy and caffeine aren't my friends at the moment singing this role. Sigh. In any case, I highly recommend Fishy Fishy - a perfect lunch - nutritious and delicious..... what more can a soprano ask for?

http://fishyfishy.ie/index.html
http://kinsale.ie/
http://www.muresupperdeck.com.au/

So I figured it's about time I started telling people about some of the great places I find as I travel about the place as a freelance singer. Varied - often good and sometimes great, and mostly never boring - gastronomic experiences are one of the great perks about my profession. At the moment I'm 'commuting' between Ireland, Spain and Switzerland and with up to 4 different venues in one week, one is confronted with alot of different food options. One place in particular this week has been rather special - Fishy Fishy in Kinsale on the County Cork Coast. And I'll tell you all about it after my performance tonight because now it's time to warm up!